To first see Manhattan go to Staten Island even if your Russian taxi driver groans with gulag desperation.Tell him you want to catch a ferry and when he says,"What! I take you to city direct!" Give the bastard as good as you get: New York style, blunt non-negotiation.
First sight from St. George across the water: a distant urban mound; a city that seems dense pressed on little ground; the south port metal curtain to a deep spread town.
ALL ABOARD! ALL ABOARD!
Sound of commuters; sound of crowd surge past camouflaged soldiers; sniffer dogs; flury of newspapers; the chant of an umbrella wielding street vendor, "if you pass me by, you won't stay dry;" moving stuff; looking to trade; looking to make a buck; looking to move up, upwards;
crossing water: vertical emergence.
Close closer now and all the crowd bristled in response; a sideways glance: that outstretched arm; that flame; those Ellis Island huddled masses yearning to breathe free; the clamouring cacophony of myth and hope and industry piled high and all above your head.
ALL ASHORE! ALL ASHORE!
To first see Manhattan use your feet; take a hike along the slow reveal of canyon streets; see light bathed glories framed by dishevelled nights; the shuffle of the nowhere; dark spaces that bite; take accidental corners that reveal street vendors, pocket cultures, negotiators making deals; that rich real that surpases all the myths.
To first see Manhattan is to see what a city is.